Gledhill Brook Fusee Time Recorder. 1940s.

This was a complete case and movement restoration.

Gledhill Brooks Time Recorder. 1930.

Gledhill Brooks Time Recorder. 1930.

newgledhill2

This is a Gledhill Brook Time Recorder clock with Empire fusée movement . (Simplex, Ltd., bought out Gledhill Brook in 1964). It’s made in England. I have completed everything except the face which will have to be sent for restoration by a professional. Gledhill Brooks are widely regarded as the finest Time Recorders built and the only Company to fit their machines with ‘Fusee’ clock movements.

They were all of eight day duration and very good time keepers. The recorder mechanism in this one is in perfect working condition. I recall having to fabricate one of the control rods that connect the clock movement to the time recorder unit.

Gledhill Brook advertisement

Below is a chart of serial numbers that might be of useful reference to you, as we often receive questions about the age of these clocks:

 1912 – 3000
1918 – 13800
1919 – 17841
1920 – 18823
1921 – 19569
1922 – 21200
1923 – 21600
1924 – 21848
1925 – 22155
1926 – 22468
1927 – 22816
1928 – 23301
1929 – 23938
1930 – 29208
1931 – 50001
1932 – 50264
 1933 – 51027
1934 – 51365
1935 – 51977
1936 – 52610
1937 – 53381
1938 – 54677
1939 – 55371
1940 – 57430
1941 – 59901
1942 – 62830
1943 – 65830
1944 – 67581
1945 – 69501
1946 – 70871
1947 – 72341
1948 – 73311
1949 – 74201
1950 – 74391
1951 – 76471
1952 – 78076
1953 – 79701
1954 – 80501
1955 – 81321
1956 – 81901
1957 – 82301
1958 – 84451
1959 – 85371
1960 – 86101
1961 – 87081
1962 – 87786
1963 – 89241
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205 responses to “Gledhill Brook Fusee Time Recorder. 1940s.

  1. hi i have a time clock exactly the same but require a fusee chain and was wondering if anybody could help ? regards gary

  2. Hi there, my friends have an identical clock and are trying to do some research on its age etc. Do you have any ideas where they can find out? The serial number on their clock is 78719. It came from the local bus depot! It does look exactly the same as yours from your picture and it is in full working order

    • Thank you for writing!

      I’m sorry, but I have never been able to find a listing of serial numbers to date my clock exactly. My best guess is 1930’s. I have attached a history of Gledhill Brooks below….Thanks

      Administrative history:
      G H Gledhill and Sons Ltd was established by George H Gledhill (supported by his sons, Arthur H Gledhill, Gilbert Gledhill and Walter G Gledhill), to produce his new inventions. Whilst running a millinery business in Northgate, Halifax in 1886, he invented an automatic cash till and automatic cash displayer. In 1892, the company moved into the top floor of the Trinity Works on Harrison Road, Halifax, to manufacture cash tills. He subsequently took over the whole factory and opened two others in Halifax and one in Huddersfield. The firm bought Frank Brooks time recording business to form Gledhill-Brook Time Recorders Ltd in 1912.

      During World War 1, the company developed a bomb-release mechanism.

      This was fitted as standard to the early bombers of the Royal Flying Corps and, later, the Royal Air Force. During the 2nd World War, the company produced a range of military equipment: sun compasses for desert operations, a field service level for use in road and trench construction, map measurers, booby traps, tanks and torpedoes.

      In 1964, the time-recorder business was sold to the Simplex Time Recorder Company of Gardner, Massachusetts. The business closed in 1975.

  3. I am trying to restore a Gledhill Brook Time recorder as depicted by you. Do you have, or know where I can get, a detailed description with diagrams on the the workings, of the time recording mechanism.

    • Thank you for writing!

      I’m afraid I’ve never come across any diagrams or technical information on Gledhill Brooks. When I dismantle my recorders, I photo document the disassembly and use the photos as a guideline when I go to put it back together.

      Good luck on your project!

  4. I have had a Gledhill Brooks time recorder for several years, it is number 56586. It originally came from a Cowes, Isle of Wight shipyard and I have been trying to ascertain how old it is. I have had no luck tracing any number listings but it is similar to yours except it doesn’t have the slider on the front. The clock in/out works automatically when the front handle is depressed. Could you suggest a possible date?. Of all the mechanical clocks I have this is certainly the most accurate.

    • Thank you for writing!

      I would have to see a photo in order to determine age…Can you send one? I am not surprised that it is your most accurate clock. These were the only time recorders manufactured with ‘Fusee’ movements.

      Let me know.

  5. I’ve just acquired a gledhill time recorder unfortunately i don’t have the keys to the locks. Does anyone possess a spare set does one key fit all? The serial number is 77910 below the dial. Also i intend to restore the case any advise on the the original finish would be appreciated

    • Can’t advise on the key, as mine is missing. With regards to the finish, some collectors like to have the original finish untouched. However, in some cases the original finish is beyond repair. This was the case with mine so I opted to strip off all the original varnish and sanded off the stain to the original natural oak. I then refinished with new stain and ‘Bulls eye’ spray shellac.

  6. Not really into clocks, but have acquired a very nice example of the Gledhill Brook Time Recorder. Noting some of the comments about age, mine has an interesting plate on it. Appears to be the same print and material as the serial number and the small tag above the serial number stating “Do not turn the hands back.” The tag in question is at the top of the case and states — L.M.S. RDA. 8-36 My serial number is 54727 About mid way between all the ones I’ve seen posted. And, like everyone else, I’m curious about value.

  7. Granville T B Camsey

    Have a Gledhill Brook Time Recorder ‘Empire Number 40517 Can any one please advise precisely how the pendulum[which hangs from two pins fixed in a spring]is connected to the escapement mechanism I think I have a small part missing

    • There should be s hanger with a pin at the base that attaches to the pendulum . . .

      The adjustment screws are to set the clock in ‘beat’. This adjustment is not critical….you could fabricate a simple wire pin to replace the missing part.

      When this is done you would have to bend the crutch slightly instead of using the adjustment screws to set the clock in beat.

      To set up the ‘beat’ make a piece of card about 4 inches long and mark increments of ¼ inch. When the pendulum is still, place the card at the base of the pendulum so it points to the center of the card. Then move the pendulum to either side of the card. The ‘Tick’ should sound at an equal distance to the ‘tock’. So, the pendulum should swing equally on either side of its centerline.

  8. During the year 1938, S/N’s 54677 – 55370 (Tim Damiels clock)
    1939, S/N’s 55371 – 57429 (Tony Bradford)
    1942, S/N’s 62830 – 65869 (Yours, not 1930, I’m afraid, and it looks a bit pale!)
    1951, S/N’s 76471 – 78075 (James)
    1952, S/N’s 78076 – 79700 (Julie)

    Info from Paul Harrison’s paper on G-BTRC, 1912-1064

    • James,

      Thank you for your info.

      You are right about the dates, so thanks for letting everyone know!

      As far as the stain on our case, yes, we decided to refinish this case in a light stain. We already had several dark specimens. And since these aren’t terribly valuable clocks, we decided to do something a little different and go light. Thanks for noticing!

  9. When I aquired my clock recently, there were no keys either. The door lock had been removed so the door was secured with an exterior padlock system(!), for which much hacking of the woodwork was needed. Fortunately, the original lock had been tossed into the bottom of the case, so was easily replaced.

    However, as it was detatched, it was relatively easy to dismantle the lock in order to make a new key. I actually merely modified an existing key that was the right size. Do the locks on the clocks you guys have, have four levers formed into hooks that engage with the keep on the door? This configuration was a new one on me.

    The second lock, to disable the ‘In-Out’ selector was a rather more usual system, but I note the escutcheon is inverted. Is this usual?

    I am on the look-out for some clock cards, if anyone knows of any. I have chopped up a cerial packet for setting purposes and does anybody have any experience of re-inking ribbons?

    • Did you ever get help on re-inking the ribbons

      • Thank you for writing.

        We have purchased ribbons for our Gledhill Brook time recorders from ebay UK. However, if that’s not a feasible option for you, I would think an office supply store would be able to provide you with the carbon ribbon, provided you take a spool into them.

  10. I do have the key with my time clock and if I knew how, I could post a photo of it. I would almost suspect that they were pretty much the same from one clock to the next and not a real security thing. Just to keep the wrong hands from getting in there and fouling something up.
    Anyway, it doesn’t really look like a precision item for this clock alone.

    Of interest is some paperwork that came with this clock. It was apparently (possibly?) used on the A.D.Ltd. Railway in Kemp Town, Brighton in Jolly Olde England. Have no idea how it might have migrated over here, but that is some of the material that came with it. Also an instruction sheet that was probably place on the wall next to the device.

    Really neat old stuff!!

    Tim Dannels

    • Is there any way I could get a copy of the instruction sheet on you clock. I have one and no paperwork at all.

    • Anthony Brookes

      IT WOULD BE REALLY GREAT IF YOU COULD COPY AND POST ANY PAPERWORK. DOES NOT SEEM TO BE MUCH OUT THERE. ANY INFO GREATLY RECEIVED.IF YOU CANT POST IT YOU COULD EMAIL TO ME AND I WILL UPLOAD
      REGARDS
      ANTHONY BROOKES

  11. I used these every working day for twelve years while I was a fitter in HM Portsmouth Dockyard. The number of times I cursed these clocks for docked money due to lateness! That aside they are lovely pieces of work and I managed to buy one at a country auction this weekend, cost me £70, which I thought was reasonable. The case is filthy and paint spattered but that will clean and the clock works, or has been working for the last 12 hours or so. There is no key to the clocking in unit and I would like to know is there a safe way of getting into this part to clean and make good? Or is it best to leave well alone?

    • Looks like you got a steal if you only paid 70 pounds!!

      The time recorder mechanism is not locked. You should be able to access the bottom unit by opening the glass door at the front. Located inside the case there are two wooded tabs held in place with screws. The tabs just slide out of the way and you should be able to drop the bottom cover down. It’s hinged at the front.

      The key hole on the front of the lower unit is not to lock the case; it locks the ‘In-Out’ lever in place.

      Many clock supplier companies such as Merritts still supply keys for these clocks. Be sure to measure the winding arbor before you make your purchase; there were two or three different sizes made for British and American clocks.

      http://www.merritts.com/store4/public/product.aspx?ProductID=82604&SubcategoryID=2004

  12. I forgot to add that there was no winding key for the clock, the winder it came with is a socket attached to an allen key; it works but I’d like somethime a little more authentic. Is a key easily available or will I need to hunt one down.

  13. Now have the front and the door off and the insides look grubby but complete. The clock has been ticking for nearly 48 hours with out any time loss so I think its a goer! Two

    Is it easy enough to take out the recorder section for cleaning without harming the clock? I know nothing about clocks so don’t want to mess it about too much.

    Re its age. Ive found two 5 digit numbers, one on a small front panel and another on a wooden baton or partition next to the clock cark ‘hole’. Which one do I use? Many thanks.

    • Hi Steve, It sounds as if you have made a good start. Well done.
      The time recording works in my clock were secured with some fairly hefty wood-screws. As far as I remember, once these were released, the works slid out ‘frontwards’ (the lower cover was restrained with a length of chain). The two driver rods (left for time-of-day, right for day-of-week) will self release. To re-connect them, I suggest you avoid a jugling act. Split the rods and then re-tune date and time when it is all back together.
      My clock only had one number; beneath the dial. The dates of manufacture have been kindly placed at the top of the main thread. HTH.

  14. Many thanks for the info James. The lower cover was indeed held back by a length of chain. I had thought that it was just four screws holding the recorder in place, great to have that confirmed. Can’t wait to get it into the workshop and clean up the case and dial.

    One further question; the hands are a little rusty, would it hurt to give them a coat of piant and what should I clean the dial with, I was going to use soap and water then dry thoroughly.

    • With regard to the hands, the purists would probably ‘blue’ them. Two methods here: 1) heat ABSOLUTELY evenly (various methods in the books) to 300 deg C and quench, or 2) there are ‘Bluing Salts’ available from specialists. Otherwise I’d paint them! Satin Black from Motorist’s DIY shop should do nicely.
      Soap and water, and much care on the dial should be OK, but the script is pretty soft, so be careful.

  15. So how easy is it to take the hands off? I thought that there was a knurled nut keeping them on, but undoing it would turn the hands backwards and I thought that this was not a good idea.

    Sorry if this sounds a bit thick but I am a complete novice.

    • Hold the Minute hand with one hand while un-doing the nut. You are turning the nut with respect to the hand and the arbor on which it is attached. The arbor has a square on which the hand is mounted, so holding the hand will prevent the arbor from turning.

  16. Cheers James that seems straight forward.

  17. Well everything is out of the case, I couldn’t believe how easy it was – I hope those words don’t come back to bite me. Thre appears to be no problems, grubby and a little rust but nothing drastic. There is yet another 5 digit number this time on the metal block of the clock works itself! I was surprised to find it made from steel and not brass and that the ‘works ‘ are held in place with three wood screws.
    Well at least I will be able to work on the case without fear of getting muck in the clock, and I am confident that all the mechanical gubbins will go back in without too much trouble. Thanks to all who have given advice.

  18. Re re-inking ribbons. Years ago when I was a penniless student I owned a PCW256 computer with a printer which had a fabric ribbon. Being unable to afford new ribbons we used to use ink for stamp pads to revitalise them. Drop in the ink let it stand for a while to soak up the ink and away you go! It worked well enough – could do the trick.

  19. Last week, I bought a 1930’s Gledhill-Brook wall clock in a antique shop. But I don’t know how to put the pendulum on the right place. Can you give some advice or any instruction sheet you may have (mechanism is made by Empire, # 20613). Thanks in advance.

    • The pendulum hangs from a suspension spring that is attached to the cast iron frame to which the movement is screwed. There is a piece that hangs out the back of the movement. I’m attaching a photo of this piece. See in the photo the rod hanging down the back. At the bottom of this rod is a pin. This is the pin which fits into the slot at the top of the pendulum rod.

      You can adjust the screws on either side of that pin to get the clock in beat.

      See if this helps. Feel free to write back with further questions.

  20. Clock is finished and hanging in the kitchen. Keeps super time with a soothing tick. Will get around to matching clocking part to clock but not over worried about that. Thanks to all who gave advice.

  21. Hi –
    has anyone found a supplier of ink ribbons for a Glenhill Brook Clock ?? in the UK as I’m re commissioning a Clock for the Historical Trust in Portsmouth Dockyard
    Regards
    Mike

    • Gledhill parts are difficult to find through conventional merchants. I have purchased parts for Gledhills by contacting sellers of these time recorders through ebay. I have found that many of the sellers have a great deal of parts available.

  22. Has anyone any ideas about I can obtain a supply of suspensions for Gledhill Brook time recorders. They are much biggers for obious reasons than any in supplies catalogues.

  23. Sorry this isn’t about Gledhill. I have just bought a National Time Recorder time clock (long-case). It didn’t come with a key and I just can’t get into it.
    …tried removing the back to access the lock but the clock mechanism is mounted on that so no good there. Does anyone know where I could get a key for it?

    • Thank you for reading!

      They made several types of key for these clocks. I purchased a recorder that was locked, I took it to a locksmith and he was able to open the case for me without damaging the lock…I would recommend you do the same.

      Best of luck!

  24. Hi,
    I have recently bought a “fusee clock movement” from eBay, which turns out to be the clock movment (plus dial, hands, pendulum – but no case) from Gledhill-Brooks.

    The serial number (on the face of the movement) is 14219, making it 1918/19, I guess.

    The card mechanism has long gone, but I had planned to re-case it as a regular clock, unless anyone has any opinions to the contrary!

    Has anyone seen any sympathetic adaptations of these movements into conventional clocks?

    Feel free to email me (phd@mrc-lmb.cam.ac.uk).
    Paul

  25. Hi,
    I have recently bought a “fusee clock movement” from eBay, which turns out to be the clock movment (plus dial, hands, pendulum – but no case) from Gledhill-Brooks.

    The serial number (on the face of the movement) is 14219, making it 1918/19, I guess.

    The card mechanism is long gone, but I had planned to re-case it as a regular clock, unless anyone has any opinions to the contrary!

    Has anyone seen any sympathetic adaptations of these movements into conventional clocks?

    Feel free to email me (phd@mrc-lmb.cam.ac.uk).
    Paul

    • I have seen a few time recorders modified by removing the lower section that contained the time recording mechanism. You may have noticed I have a similar Gledhill Brook clock in my collection.
      You mentioned that you purchased the movement, did it come with the cast iron frame that the movement attaches to? This is needed with these clocks because the pendulum suspends from the frame..not the movement.

      I think the idea of using one of these movements would make a perfect project to marry with a new case. One could not purchase anything close to the quality of a Gledhill movement today, even in ‘their day’ they were regarded as the best Time recorders made, mostly due to the quality of the fusee movement….the only time recorder that used fusee mechanisms! …Maybe you could send us a photo when it’s completed?

  26. I just happen to take a group to a bar and the place was just about empty. I noticed a clock behind the bandstand. I checked it out and it was a time recorder clock. Long story short, I purchased the Gledhill Brook Time Recorder for $131.00 and was told this was what he paid for it. He wanted it for his bar years ago. He sold it to me because of my genuine interest and knowledge of clocks and he wanted me to have it. He was selling his business.
    This happen in 1972 and I still have the clock. It is without question the best thick brass clock movement I have ever seen. The fusee movement makes for the most accurate clock I have ever owned.

  27. In response to the earlier question, yes, it has the cast-iron frame (but none of the timestamping hardware). On the basis of the comments, I’m going to build a case for it and use it as a clock – I’ll let you know how it goes!

    One question – am I right about the age of this one? Is it unusually old for one of these?

    Cheers and thanks to all,
    Paul

  28. Hi all, can anyone help me please?. Ive recently purchased a Gledhill Brook Clocking in/out machine from ebay for £42.00 originally from the Lucas factory in Birmingham,..all in very good order, however it is a slave clock and im aware that a pulse is required but the timings and electrical values of the required pulse i have yet to find out. This leads me to here,..does anyone have any info that could help me please,..i have an accomplished electronics expert on hand for the design and construction of this pulse generator. Thanks Daz.

    • Did anybody get back to you on this? I also bought a slave clock. Despite living in a very small village a friend living here worked in the family firm maintaining these machines. He has got it working but its all beyond me. We did buy a pulse motor for about £2 from e bay and a motor I think from Maplin for £1.35. It turned out to be a 30 second pulse required.
      If you are still waiitng for answers let me know and I’ll get information off of him though he’s away for 3 weeks now

    • Daz,
      Just happened across your message from 18 months ago…
      These clocks generally require a pulse every 30seconds at a current of 0.25 to 0.30Amps. Your electronics expert could measure the resistance of the coil and work out the voltage needed

  29. I have been trying to get some cards for the Gledhill
    Does anybody know of a source or have a picture of the cards ?
    Or will I have to design mu own ‘to fit’?

  30. I have just come across this web site. Very interesting. I own a fully working time recorder dateing from 1942 – 1943 and aquired it when the engineering firm I worked for closed down . In total I have known this machine for about 35 years and was originally interested because I live in Halifax where the were made.

  31. I wonder if anyone can help I have just bought a gledhill brook time recorder which I believe is a very early electric one on the back of the case it is marked with the letters and numbers EOC 383 as is also the movement which looks like a mechanical one which has been converted to electric or are they manufactured like this has anybody any Idea of dates etc this is a restoration project and the clock looks to be complete except for a plate on the front underneath the small sign ‘DO NOT TURN THE HANDS BACK’ could do with a photo if poss, many thanks in advance Roger

    • The serial number is usually stamped on the case look at the top of the clock case or inside the recorder area. You should be able to date the clock using the table listed on my blog. Many of these clocks originally had a spring wound fusee movement that was replaced with an electric mechanism. Often it is possible to see where the pendulum would have left scratches in the case where the pendulum bob would have hit the back board of the case. I have not personally worked on a electromechanical modification of these clocks.

  32. Who manufactured the ‘Empire’ movements in the Gledhill-Brook time recorder No17797 ?

    • Hi Simon,

      Another one of our readers posted the following comment to another Gledhill Post. Perhaps this will help: “G-B made its own cases and stamped the serial number on the top edge of the left or right siderail, top left edge of the open door, inside bottom of the case and on the white tag attached to the dial surround. The movement was made by Wm. Haycock of Ashbourne and the numbering started at 7000 They do not match the number in the case. They marketed 14 Attendance models, 8 Attendance&Time Costing, 2 Portable, 6 Signature & Autograph and 1 Transport. Electrics after WW2.

  33. I have contacted Wm Haycock Ltd who do not know about manufacturing the “Empire” movement although they have a very high reputation for working on them. The recorders were made at the Empire works in Huddersfield, Yorkshire,England, which would suggest that the works were also made there by M/S Gledhill-Brooks verification would be good…

    • Thank you for doing the leg work on this, Simon, and then sharing your results with us!

    • That’s interesting. My understanding was that Frank Brook was making Check Clocks in Huddersfield, then set up the Stockall Brook Time Recorders Syndicate group. G H Gledhill & Sons Limited were at Trinity Works, Halifax.
      In March 1912, what had become the Stockall-Brook Time Recorders Ltd, was no longer able to pay its way and went into liquidation. The assets were acquired by Mssrs G H Gledhill & Sons Limited.
      In August of that year, G H Gledhill & Sons Limited floated a new company called the Gledhill Brook Time Recorders Ltd and sold to this company the business and effects that had been acquired from Stockall-Brook Time Recorders Ltd.
      In 1920, Trinity works was extended and another factory was built at Victory Works,West Parade, Halifax.
      In 1924 they exhibited at the British Empire Exhibition at Wembly, London, where their catalogue refered to ‘Huddersfield & Halifax’.
      I have not yet been able to find when Huddersfield became included, unless the premises of Stockall-Brook were retained.

  34. I recently bought a Gledhill-Brook time recorder with a broken (and incorrect) suspension spring and had one made up in Grantham for a fiver, money well spent as the clock now looks and sounds great and keeps perfect time I did manage to get the winding arbour re bushed ,inspite of nearly allproffessionals wanting to do a complete overhaul which I judged un-necessary

  35. I HAVE A GLEDHILL BROOK TIME RECORDING CLOCK IN FULL WORKING ORDER MADE IN 1957. CAN YOU ADVISE ME OF ITS VALUE AND WHERE I COULD SELL IT?

    • Thank you for writing.

      My evaluation would be based on what they sell for in the US. Unfortunately, these clocks have less value in the UK than here in America. I would scope out the prices on EBay UK to get a good comparison.

  36. Hi – I have a Gledhill Brook Time Recorder No 29801 which I guess puts it around 1930. We bought it about 19 years ago in Devon and I have never had to do anything to it. The whole unit, including the case, is in great condition for an 80 year old machine. My guess is that it was in an office at Plymouth Dockyard and was sold off during the privatisation years (it has 312 on a Traffolyte label and also stencilled on the glass). This is a truly astonishing piece of engineering. This is precisionmachinery and not a clock; the escapement is made out of what looks like tool steel and is reversible for when it wears. However after 80 years there is no sign of any wear! We’ve had it in Oz for the last 15 years and I’m starting to worry that I should clean and oil it. Any tips on doing this would be greatly appreciated.

    Cam

  37. Hi,
    My parents have a gledhill brook time recorder, # 59249 and because of medical reasons are moving in with my sister, they sent me pictures and asked if I could find out more about it as they won’t be able to take it with them and will need to sell it, could you advise me on how I would know what its worth? I have pictures that would give you a good of idea of its condition,
    Thanks
    Heather

  38. without knowing the condition It is impossible to give an approximate value also is it in uk or across the pond or even “la Manche” but I have seen them on Ebay for as little as £250,00and one recently sold in the UK –fully restred by Loomes of Stamford uk for£700.00 .. Is it elecric or mechanical, is it in working order, is it complete? Send me a photo simon.ward870@ntlworld.com

    • It looks like at some point this clock has been converted into an electric clock. It does not have a pendulum nor winding holes in the face. From our experience, these clocks in their original condition could sell for anywhere from $200 to $300 in the United States. However, as this one has been converted, I don’t know that there would be that sort of market for it . . . It may perhaps sell for much less as a decorator piece.

      Having said that, though, we don’t have that much experience with electric conversions. Simon many have more thoughts on this.

  39. Roger Masheder

    Hi all I wrote earlier that I had a clock that was electric but looked as if it had been converted and yes you were right I did find the pendulum marks on the back of the case I trolled about and found a mechanical movement the exact same and rebuilt the clock back to the original, I think it is a bit older than the clock ive seen in the photographs the face was in a state so I made a new one also the cogs on the converted movement were quite a lot thinner than the later movement I found, and the patina was of great age
    on the brasswork on the movement. The recorder has an in-out-in-out four stage time stamp and the case round the recorder is quite a bit different to the one in the photo, I have just about finished the rebuild and would like to post photos on this site of the clock as it now is to invite comments,
    Roger Masheder
    ps the ribbon on the wooden bobbins needs re-inking what is the best way to do this

  40. I’d like to thank you for your responses to my questions, I have forwarded it all on to my mom, much appreciated.
    Heather

    • From Simon: The clock looks fairly original but in poor shape and would make a nice restoration job however the value would have to reflect the work put in to bring it up to snuff ,Here in UK probably about £20 -£30.

  41. re-inking,in my experience,is done with rubber stamp liquid (obtainable in good stationers) it is a delightfully messy job,at least it was when I did it,so spouses are best sent well out of the way..Carefully remove the bobbins from their shafts and unwind them, cut out damaged portions or replace with new ribbon lay out flat on plastic disposable sheet and pour on the ink re-roll and replace on the shafts taking care to get the ribbon into its two guides, contact your spouse and tell her its safe to come home,do a rapid clean up of hands,walls and ceiling dispose of the plastic sheet, clothing etc and hey presto! (let me know if you find a better way)

  42. Hi to all, My father was a servce engineer for South Wales after the war and progressed to Sales Director of Simplex and retired in 1985. I also was an engineer with Simplex and worked on and renovated Gledhill Brook machines models for 7 years, Great machines but in these days of “Throw away” they were too good and never needed replacing so Gledhill sold to Simplex in 1964, who made a good machine but need replacing after 6 -10 years so repeat sales kept them profitable. Any technical imfo required contact apf.nunn@btinternet.com
    Regards
    Andy Nunn

  43. Nice to see the post from Andy.

    I have collected 3 of them & notice 4 characteristics
    a) They are very well made and robust.
    b) The design is quite modular. Several options can be added to a basic printer.
    c) Once you know the tricks they are quite easy to service. The modules can be easily removed
    d) The basic design hardly changed over about 30 years.

    I have seen :-
    Three clock-options, but they share the same printer connections.
    Clockwork
    Master-clock (ie synchronome)
    Synchronous motor from the mains

    One printer variation
    Day-print or Day-date-month print.
    Two extras that can be added to a basic single-column printer
    Change column with manual lever (very popular)
    Automatic column-change once a day
    An optional ribbon-colour module. A daily cycle of colour-switches are programmed on a big brass ‘pin-wheel’

    Here are 3 age-indicators, I think that the switch is about 1940
    Pediment top
    Curly bottom to dial-apron
    Separate bezel around the dial

    There are 2 other things which look like ‘old-clock indicators’, but do not seem to be
    Cast-brass plate with name and telephone number around the card-slot
    Cast-brass (not pressed-steel) printer side-plates

    Is this a fair summary, what have I missed & what have I got completely wrong ?

    Dave

  44. Just to sum up, your original clock is
    >Late Type
    >Clockwork
    >Manual column change
    >Steel card-slot surround
    >Cast-brass printer side-frame
    >No ribbon-changer

  45. I have recently been in touch with an ex Gledhill Brook employee who was to inform me that G-B didn’t out source any of their clock parts and the “EMPIRE”clocks were made by them at their Trinity works in Halifax Yorkshire’ UK (not Nova Scotia!!)

  46. I have just aquired a Gledhill-Brook “empire no 15344 it’s been converted to a wall clock with “clocking on ” mechanism removed it works perfectly but the serial no. appears to be around 1918 ? it came from Aveling- Barford in Grantham is the year correct?

  47. Tony Worthington

    Can anyone help – on the clocking in mechanism the gear that turns thre minute gear has a cam which drops into the hour gear when it reaches a block at the top of the cycle. A spring holds the cam out of the hour gear for the rest of the time – mine is missing – can anyone enlighten me as to what the spring looks like or whether I can get one from somewhere?

  48. To Peter Collins. Are you sure that you have the number from the clock CASE as the Number stamped on the mechanism is not necessarily any indication of the clocks age ,if your case has been cut away you will find the number stamped into the end grain of the wood on the top left hand side of the case.
    All clockworks were made by Gledhill Brook @ their Trinity Works in Huddersfield .Hope this helps

  49. Hello, just picked up one of these clocks (serial 29128) locally. I’m amazed by the quality of the engineering inside. It needs a suspension spring (I supppose it got moved with the pendulum still connected) so if anyone can point me towards a supplier of the assembled spring, or just some suitable spring steel I’d be gratefull.
    To the poster (Tony) who wanted information on a detent spring, I’m not too sure which part you’re referring to. If you still need the information either post a photo on her of where it should go, or email me. I’m in Barnsley if you’re near.
    All the best
    chris

  50. If you have the broken bits of suspension spring any good clock repairer should be able to make one up for about £5.00 (fiver) or at least supply you with the materials, I had the same problem and was soon over it. Also the number you quote is it the mechanism number or the clock case number as the clock case number is the clock number? You are certainly right about the quality of the works.

  51. To Chris W ..I have the material for the spring that you seek. let me know where you want it sent..Cy W.

  52. Hello, the number is the case number – stamped on the front base, the hinged lower cover, and pencil written under the grime on the top of the case! Also on the traffolite label inside.
    According to the list at the top of this thread that make it an old ‘un. That might explain why the clock has no fusee , and no sign of ever having one. The front middle panel – the one that covers the pendulum – is solid wood. Plus, the lower hinged cover has a plain front, no sign of any lever or slot or anything. The stamping lever is a large curved brass thing at the side of the card slot.
    Regarding the suspension spring – would I be able to use some spring steel from a feeler gauge?
    Kind regards
    chris

  53. use feeler gauge steel ,yes, if the right thickness and suspended correctly in brass cleats ,it must fit snugly in its anchorage or you will have what is refered to as a drunken”pendulum” address please & I will send correct article (Barnsley UK not USA?)

    • That’s a very kind offer, I will PM my address – Barnsley UK!
      Not sure If I’d have any objection to a drunken pendulum though, I’d lose half my friends if I did.
      This clock is intriguing; the case is not badly worn or marked at all and might be recently shellaced, but over a lot of ingrained dirt in the oak. Theres a good layer of oily dust in the bottom, which goes against the idea of any restoration after it was retired.
      The brass of the clock movement is fairly bright, and there’s no evident wear anywhere, on anything. But I don’t think this means anything – this could have run for ninety years solid without any wear! From the top surface, the large brass escutcheon or plate around the card slot looks recently manufactured – there’s no marking or wear, But the appearance of the underside of the brass plate appears nice and ancient.
      I picked it up for a song locally with the idea that I’d stirp it, tinker with it and get it working. But after a close look I don’t think the movement even needs a clean. The time recorder is a little bit dusty though. I’ll post some photographs of it all in due course. Meanwhile I’m on the lookout for any more – these are overlooked treasures – even for somebody whose only interested in the movement (heathens!).
      All the best
      chris

      • Chris,
        Where you might find some wear is round the winding arbor. The enormous spring force tends to pull the steel arbor “northwest” and in turn make the hole oval over time. This can become a problem after may years running as the fusée chain is pulled at an angle rather than perpendicular to the axis of the barrel so that when you wind it you can find one turn of the chain “climb up” on top of the adjacent turn rather than lie next to it. This will cause the clock to stop as the cahin jams underneath the top left pillar. Getting the winding arbor bushed will fix this but won’t be cheap if you get it done by a good clock repairer. They also might want to do a full strip down and this might cost £400!
        Tony – in West not South Yorks….

    • Anthony Brookes

      Hi i know this is an old post, but wondered if you might still be able to help.
      when i got my time recorder the pendulum was broken and the spring was missing. i have no idea what the size of the spring is . i have tried at least three bought from e bay but none seem long enough. do you have the measurements or even better a picture with measurements on.
      any help greatly appreciated

  54. I have a nice G-B 1940’s. It’s complete and keeps accurate time. The punch mech. is all working too and the wood is in great shape. How much is this clock worth and is there a market for it. I have had it for about 20 years and am thinking about selling it.
    Thank you
    Steve

  55. I did change the electrics to work in the U.S. otherwise it’s all origional and has the ribbon too.

  56. Hi , Im now a proud owner of a 1931 model(29781) , according to the dates of the serial numbers, mine was bought for 90.00 today (had to fight hard for it!) at auction and was originally in HM Dockyard Devonport. Im looking forward to restoring it and it seems to tick, I have all the keys and a couple of cards . If any one could perhaps scan me some instructions ,I would be greatfull! An excellent site really pleased to have stumbled on it. Looking forward to cleaning mine up. Just one quick question , i have discovered a small brass wire hanging from the clock mechanism about 3 to 4 inches (not the pendulum) any ideas looks like it should be attached to something ?? Shall follow with interest and will post details of mine as I go, cheers all Marc

    • Lucky you! That’s a good price for one of that age. idon’t have any instructions (not sure there are any) but can tell you that the brass wire should not be connected to anything else. Is there a small circular loop in the wire at the free end? From memory it is to release (early) the snail cam which drives the mechanism that moves the clock card stop up every 12 hours. Can’t be more precise than that my GB is in bits at present!

  57. Marc Seccombe

    Tony thank you for your reply , and Jennifer for alerting me. Yes the brass wire does have a loop on it and i pulled it and heard something click. Have been itching to get home from uni today (yes mature student!) to do some real work. I will set up a photo gallery on photobucket or some other site and post it accordingly as I go! Many thanks for your promp replies and welcoming me to the site. Happy times! Marc

  58. Take very great care when moving these clocks, I took mine apart which is very simplere quireing only a screw driver and care. Being of an idustrial nature the tick is quite loud but soon got use to .They are superbly made and with care will last several life times.

  59. Marc Seccombe

    Hi all ! As promised here is a link to photos of my stripdown. http://s1152.photobucket.com/upload/albums/mseccombe/
    Have sanded all the outside today and used an oak bleach to pale the dark wood down a bit, I intend to wax finish the case. Got some new bright work hinges and am trying to track a circular escutcheon plate for the bottom locking mechanism which mine does not have. The internals all seem excellent however the stamping section requires some carefull cleaning. Will have the cabinet finished in the next couple of days and will reunite everything. Marc

  60. professorpepper

    Fascinating page you’ve got here! Much appreciated!!

    I bought a Gledhill Brook (No 60411) in a country sale back in the 80s. Ran beautifully until the day I decided to treat it to a service at a local watchmakers. He’d never worked on one before but said he’s take it on. When it was returned to me some weeks later he said he hadn’t had time to work on it BUTit was no longer working…and the pendulum was no longer attached! He retired soon afterwards.

    I then sought out another established High Street horologist who again had never touched one but who said he could probably make me a suitable suspension spring – it wasn’t right and broke! The poor old clock was then taken by a friend of a friend who tinkered with clocks as a hobby and who thought he too might be able to help. Screwdrivers were soon in evidence but his tinkering was also in vain. Needless to say, the poor old time clock has been silent now for over 15 years. I walk past it every day and sigh!

    Tomorrow a Simplex clock is coming up for sale at a fairly local auction. I’ve seen snaps but they won’t guarantee that it’s working – they are reputable but as a policy always insist that clock buyers make up their own mind. Sadly I won’t be able to view. From a photo I can just about make out that it’s number is 751827 (Perhaps the Simplex face was a later replacement?). Now it looks to be pretty well identical… although mine has a differently named face, a brass pendulum bob and only one lever at the front of the case rather than the two on the auction example. I’m currently musing whether I can create a phoenix from the ashes if I manage to get the auction one cheaply. I assume the internal mechanism/parts are the same? Any way, just thought I’d let you know that my intended treat didn’t always work out too well for my dear old clock! Sadly, too many people fancied ‘having a go’ and I was just too willing to let them…

    • If this one is in auction and has Simplex on the face the rest of the clock would have been refurbished and when we did this extensive refurbishment we used to have a new locally purchased replacement face installed with Simplex printed on it.Just for your imfo when you transport these clocks we ALWAYS used to strap down the pendulum or remove it

      • Hi talking of refurbishment my Gledhill obviously started life as a pendulum movement (swing marks on back of case) but it must have worn out and somebody fitted an electric motor inside the workings behind the dial and stamped the case EOC 382 (not sure what this means or when it was converted but I was lucky enough to find a complete internal fusee works that was lacking a case with just a minor problem that was solved and I now have a buitifully rebuilt clock ticking away in my office at work which invites lots of comments from visitors and customers

  61. Making, or indeed purchasing a suspension, shouldn’t be a problem. I suspect that the reason your unused repairers were unsucessful is that attachment of the pendulum is awkward because it out of sight. Talk to me again if you are still having trouble.

  62. professorpepper

    Well sadly, as I hadn’t heard back in time I decided not to take a risk and chickened out. Knowing my luck I might have ended up with two broken time recorders. Bit of a shame really because I discovered later that it sold for £55!

    Anyway, if any of you are confident enough to have a tinker on my behalf I’ll happily pay for a repair. I’m actually based in the Brighton area but my wife does travel to work in Kent. Basically, if you’re not at the other end of the country I’d be willing to travel – ‘er, assuming that is that my wife can be persuaded likewise! Can’t stand seeing it gathering dust in the corner anymore…

    • There is an excellent repairer on Shipbourne Rd,Tonbridge Kent,
      Tho’ any good large clock repairer will do a good job for you and your s sounds as tho’ its worth some attention ..

    • Unfortunatly I live in the Highlands but I worked on these clocks in the workshop, out in the field for years and love to solve this problem for you

  63. I have a complete GHB clock Ex Government,keeps perfect time,i also had
    a portable GHB clock No 493 on the door,not realising the importance i took
    it apart and scrapped the case as it was very heavy to lift,i have still got the
    works,and face,it is spring driven also with fusee,they were used by recorders on government stations for tempory workers,i did not keep the
    clocking in works, only the clock.

  64. I have made a suspsion spring for these clocks using a 0.005 thou feeler
    blade,using the bits of the old one as a pattern,sandwhich the blade
    between 2 pieces of 16 swg brass to drill it,otherwise it can be a problem.

  65. Hi there,finally,the penny has dropped,I googled Gledhill-Brook Time Recorder,and there you are!I recently bought a movement only on Ebay
    UK for GBP 70.00.The serial number on the front plate is 3594,so it looks
    like it’s quite an old one.Sadly,it is without a pendulum,and is also without
    the cannon pinion from the motion works.Can anyone supply the dimensions
    and weight for the pendulum,or do Timesavers or Merritts have one
    available,that could be adapted to suit?Upon initial inspection,all pivots and
    pivot holes appear to be ok,the most noticable wear being on the pallet
    pins.If,when I get it running,this proves to be a source of trouble,I will move
    the escape wheel along it’s arbor to run on unmarked pins.I also need to
    know the position for the pendulum hook,relative to the pallet arbor pivot,
    as there is no cast iron frame to suppport it.Is it just slightly above?Any
    clues to the above would be greately appreciated!Thanks,Geoff.

  66. Answer to Geoff Wilson,maybe the works you bought come from a portable
    clock,they did’nt have a pendulum, a bracket was fitted on top of the front
    plate and an escapement was fitted,i don’t know much about clocks i am an
    engineer by trade,i have the works from a portable GHB clock and would send some photos if he leaves his email address,
    Ted Saunders

    • I think I have found a source of Clock-Cards for these machines (68mm x 170mm). Is anybody interested? Not sure of cost, but could be £1.50 per 10 plus postage, and might be able to do discount for quantity. Depends on response from here, and me actually being able to get hold of them!

  67. Hello there,

    I recently purchased a Gledhill Brook clock I believe was made in 1918. It is missing the clocking in machine, the casing and the two metal rods that would connect it to the actual clock. Would anyone know of where I could track this down. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Greg

    • I have a G B clocking in clock serial no 59693.I am after a suspension spring and a face.When I see it working maybe I will convert it just to the clock,I will keep you informed if I wish to do that.steven

    • I may be able to help with the case and the mechanism, but not sure about the rods, I’m in West Yorkshire. You can contact me at clocks@aknixon.force9.co.uk if you like

    • Allan Stephenson

      Greg just seen your comments, I have two different clocking in recorders, both off gledhill brook clocks, if you are still interested send me your e-mail and i will send some photos.
      regards Allan

  68. Natalie Bassy

    I have a factory Gledhill Brook recorder timer clock and i have a missing pendulun for the recorder timer, i assume. The other pendulun is for the main clock.Am i right fo rthinking that the small missing pendulun is for the recorder bit??? where could i find one please? Also my clock is in excellent working state and machanically excellent and casing is in oak and there are the numbers on the facial of the clock are 604667. I asume that this clock was made in about 1940s? Would like to know more history of my clock please and what value it would be today! thankyou. from Smurfette.

  69. There is only one pendulum on these clocks connected to the clock mechanism in the top part of the case. There are two drive rods that connect the clock to the printing mechanism. 604667 is too long for a Gledhill Brook serial number, it should only have five digits. If it is really 60467 then it was made in 1941. As to value it depends very much on condition. The last few sold on eBay have made about £200

  70. We have just aquired a Gledhill and though it is perfect working order we have no idea how to adjust the time, there is a little brass eyelet hanging down just beneath the dial, I have pulled this down and tried to move the hands forward but to no avail, could you please help us.
    Best wishes Ginger

    • I suspect the little brass eyelet you mention is on the right hand side, as you look at the clock, this is to release the lock on the right hand drive shaft which turns the “day of the week” dial on the printing mechanism. To change the time on the dial simply push the minute hand gently around clockwise, taking care not to scratch the dial as you do it. I think this is why many dials are severely worn between 5 and 7. You could also do it by gripping the knurled nut which holds the hands on, but this is more difficult and you risk over-tightening the nut.

      I the time on the dial does not match the time on the printing wheels then you have to adjust the left hand drive rod, if it is only a minute or two there should a coupling which allows you to make small adjustment by sliding two disks relative to each other. If it is a major discrepancy you need to loosen the drive shaft at one side of the coupling. One rev of the shaft = one hour.

  71. Have just found this question and answers site for Gledhill time recorders,and sorted out my loft for the one that I bought in auction from H M Stationary Office years back No56228 and was always going to take the workings out and turn it into a display or drinks cabinet, as it is a pulse machine and thought that it could never be used as a home time piece. Looking at it now I realise what a little treasure I have, but have no idea how to transform it into a useful piece that can be used in the home.
    Are there any books on the market or anyone who could help me on this
    as it will remind me of the days that I started work and had to push that handle before going home,

  72. buonasera mi chiamo Alessio e abito a Civitavecchia (Roma) anche io ho un gledhill brook matr. 69000 1940
    vorrei sapere quanto può valere (Translation: Good evening my name is Alexis and I live in Civitavecchia (Rome), also I have a Gledhill brook King. 69000 1940 I want to know what it is worth.)

  73. I have a National Time Recorder built at St Mary Cray, Kent, serial number 87225. The minute hand is missing, do you know where I might get a spare, please?

  74. Can a Pulse movement machine be converted to a wind -up or digital movement , so that it can be a practical item instead of just a curio piece, Would appreciate some help on this,from others who have done a conversion job.

    • A few of the parts in the slave movement are common to the fusée movement, but it is not easy to get hold of the other bits you would need.. Easier to look out for a complete Gledhill Brook fusée movement (typically on ebay) or generate the 30 second pulses by one of the means described by James above. The third way would be to buy a master clock, but these are typically 4 feet tall! Search for Pulsynetic or Synchronome on ebay.

  75. Rather than trying to modify the slave clock (if that is what you have), why not merely feed it with a pulse exery thirty seconds? Either search for a pulse generator, or you could have fun with a synchronous motor and a cam.

  76. We have just been given a G B T R dates 1943 my farther bought it at a MOD auction in Scotland 1947 its been stored since , im in the prosess restoring it and would like to buy a suitable clock card rack can anyone please help us.

  77. Mike and Diane, I have an old clock card rack that I have stripped and restored. If you are still looking for one send me an email,
    clocks@aknixon.force9.co.uk

  78. I’ve just bought a Gledhill Brooks time recorder and have brought it home on the back seat of the car. I’ve hung it on the wall and wound it but it won’t go. I know it was working perfectly so assume that something has happened in transit. The pendulum wasn’t disconnected for the journey and I’m not sure that it’s still attached properly although it still swings a couple of times then stops. Can I sort this easily or do I need to strip it down? If so, is it four screws and pull the front off? Gratefull for any guidance.

    • Transporting any pendulum clock without removing (or securing) the pendulum is always risky, but as the pendulum has not fallen off you seem to have got away with it. First question, have you got the clock perfectly vertical on the wall – and is the wall also vertical?
      Assuming that both these things are true, when you start the pendulum does it tick evenly? i.e. are the ‘tick’ and the ‘tock’ evenly spaced? If they not then first try tilting the clock to one side or the other until the tick and the tock are even. If you can reach a position where the clock carries on running then you know nothing is wrong with the suspension. If the clock is not already fastened to the wall though this is extremely difficult to do!

      Is it really only a couple of swings before it stops or is it 6 or 7? If it is as few as 2 then either the pendulum is rubbing against the back of the case – probably because the wall is not vertical – or the suspension spring has broken in transit and the pendulum is hanging on the ‘crutch’ instead.

      The best thing to do then as you suggest, is to remove the four screws holding the wooden surround in place and then try to look with a torch and a mirror to see if you can see what is happening at the top of the pendulum

      I’m sorry I don’t have any pictures to show you what it should look like. If you are still struggling, email me:

      clocks@aknixon.force9.co.uk

    • Hi Ive had this problem and found that it can be the centre nut holding hands on can sometimes overtighten itself try slackening it a bit

      • Thanks both for your helpful comments. The pendulum had slipped off the spring and was indeed hanging from the crutch, it was a fiddly job to refit it but I did and I think, it’s ok now, I loosened the nut holding the fingers as it was very tight, I’ve set up the case with a spirit level in both planes and it now goes for between 2 minutes and 5minutes ticking away nicely. I have tried different “angles” varying slightly each time but 5 mins is the current record. It’s a great improvement but there’s still work to do. All further suggestions really welcome. Phil

  79. If it runs for 5 min. it should run for the duration. Is it wound?
    Bernie

  80. I just purchased a Glenhill-Brook time recorder very similar to this one.
    It has no pendulum and at first glance, just got it last night, it appears to have been changed to battery. Was this common?
    There are 2 numbers on it, 23201 and CL171.
    Thanks for anyone’s thoughts and God Bless.

    • I have no idea what percentage of clocks were converted to electric operation, but there were two ways this was done. Either a mains voltage synchronous motor was fitted or a hefty solenoid system to receive pulses from a master clock ever 30 or 60 seconds. With luck these two links I found (thanks Google) will show you photos of the solenoid system.
      http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/291/clockside.jpg/
      http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/18/clocktop.jpg/

      Assuming your clock has solenoids try to operate them manually a few times and see how far the hands move. From this you can work out if the clock needs pulses every 30 or 60 seconds. As to voltage, the coils tend to be designed to work on about 0.25 Amps so if you want to be precise about this, measure the resistance of the coils and work out what voltage you need to get that current. Alternatively just start off with three ‘D’ cells in series and see if this works. You then have two options if you want to make the clock work:
      – look for a suitable master clock to drive it (these tend to be large)
      – buy a pulse generator to create the pulses – see here http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/archive/index.php/t-51286.html

      If the clock has been fitted with a synchronous motor and you are in the UK it will be designed for 240V 50Hz. If you are in USA or Canada though it could either have been made for that market and need 120V 60Hz or have been imported by from UK and really need UK voltage.
      Let me know how you get on.

      • Thank you so much for all of the info., as soon as I find time I will take the hands and dial off to peek min side to see just what it is I have here.
        I’m thrilled I found this site, it’s a blessing to meet those wiling to share their expertise. Thanks so very much.

  81. Thank you all for your kind assistance, it’s now working well and I’m not sure what I did to achieve this although the case is now dead vertical and the pendulum rests 6 to 8mm from the centre mark on the beat plate, who cares it’s been going since Saturday, it’s keeping good time and the ticking, whirring and clunking are music. Haven’t approached the clocking in mechanism yet although I know that it’s out of sync with the clock, that’s a question for another day, thanks and happy new year from Phil.

  82. TJ,
    Hi,

    If the #23201 was from the white tag the recorder was manufactured in 1927 and this was long before G-B started making electrics. G-B started with electrics at the end if WWII, yours has been converted.

    Bernie Pollack

  83. Hi, I’m mid-way through restoring a Gledhill Brooks, serial number 14219 (which, I believe, makes it quite an early one). It is missing the case and timestamping apparatus, and so I will recase it as a simple clock. The movement was caked in grease and grime, but is now gleaming and running very nicely! It’s my first fusée clock.

    I have a couple of questions, if anyone can help me out.
    (1) Was there an adjustment mechanism for setting the clock in beat? Of course I can set in beat by adjusting the pallet, but I wonder if (originally) it had any kind of adjuster screw and, if so, where it was. For example, was there a cam-screw for adjusting the tilt of the movement within the heavy cast-iron frame? The holes in the dial (for the hands, and for winding) are very generous, and I wondered if this was to allow for adjustment.

    (2) The dial on mine is in a hopeless state, to the point where restoration wouldn’t be worthwhile. The dial has been bent and then hammered flat at some stage! Large areas of enamel are missing, and most of the black lettering has vanished. I’ll keep the original dial but can’t use it. Can anyone recommend someone in the UK who can make a new dial, as authentic as possible?

    (3) I have the original hands, though they’re a bit ropey. Were these originally blued steel, or where they painted?

  84. Ah! (Further to my post just now.)

    Well, I just read the posts above and, blow me down, all three of my questions are answered there. I guess the moral of this is ‘read first, write second’. I also realized that I’d posted some questions a while back, when I first got this clock!

    Thanks to all the posters for the useful information.
    Paul (a.k.a. Maxwell – it’s a long story).

    • Paul a.k.a. Mad Max,

      Thanks for viewing our site! Here’s a little more info:

      Yes, these clocks do have a beat adjustment mechanism at the point where the pendulum connects with the crutch. I have attached a photo.

      With regards to the face, I have purchased a couple of faces on eBay. Parts for Gledhill’s come up quite frequently on eBay.

  85. I’ve replied via email, but thanks again for the information and, of course, for the blog itself.
    Paul

  86. Hello again! I thought I had sorted out all my problems (thanks to the information and people here!), but I have one remaining problem with my Gledhill fusee clock.

    I was planning to make a replacement suspension spring, based on the dimensions of the broken one in the clock. However, on closer inspection, I suspect that the broken spring was, itself, a bodge job! I’m therefore in some doubt as to the dimensions. (Why do I doubt that the broken spring is original? Mainly because the spring itself has black and white paint on it, as if it was cut out of some convenient can or tinplate sign!)

    The broken spring has a distance between the pin and the hole of 23.6mm, an overall length of 43mm, and a spring length (ie, between the two tabs) of 7mm. The spring itself is a single piece (not two parallel strips as I’ve seen in other clocks), and is 10mm wide (as wide, in fact, as the tabs themselves).

    Can anyone confirm (or deny) that these dimensions are correct? Should the spring be a single piece, or two parallel strips? And is the stiffness of the spring (within reason) important to the accuracy of the clock, or does it just need to be “springy enough”?

    Finally (!), if anyone knows of a modern suspension spring which can be substituted, it would save me a bit of faffing around. (I looked at a few horological suppliers, but didn’t see anything close to the dubious dimensions of my spring).

    Thanks again!
    Paul

    • Paul,

      I have never been able to find a comparable suspension spring on the market today. The problem is the length of the spring needs to be correct otherwise the end of the crutch (the part that fits in the slot of the pendulum) will not line up with the slot in the pendulum.

      I made the last one by using an existing suspension spring. I removed the spring steel and cut a new piece of spring steel and fitted it to the brass ends…They are really very simple to make.

      Regarding the thickness and the spring steel. I measured the gauge of an existing spring and fabricated one from a set of old spark plug feeler gauges. You can most likely buy a set of feeler gauges less than the price of one suspension spring and have a choice of many thicknesses.

      I will look tonight at the one I used and let you know tomorrow.

  87. Thanks, duetime.
    I also have yet another question. I feel like a complete numpty, but I cannot for the life of me see how to install the pendulum! I have made a temporary suspension spring, and fitted it to the slotted brass fitting in the top of the cast iron frame. I’ve also installed the movement in the frame – so far so good. But when I go to install the pendulum, I hit a problem. The pendulum’s rod has to run up between the cast iron frame and the back plate of the movement, yes? But with the frame in place, there is no way to get the prong (of the beat-adjuster) into the slot in the pendulum arm.

    The only possibilities I can think of are either (a) the prong on the beat adjuster (which points away from the back plate of the movement, and sticks up just above the bottom edge of the case-iron frame) has been replaced and is too long or (b) the pendulum can only be fitted/removed after removing the movement from the cast iron frame – but this seems very inelegant. What have I missed?
    Thanks again for your patient answers!
    Paul

    • You are correct in that one must install the pendulum before fitting the movement to the frame. Not the best design for a residential clock. However, you have to consider that these clocks would have been bolted permanently to a wall and all maintenance and repairs could be carried out without removing the case from its permanent location.

      The general idea is to hang (or place) the case where you intend it to be, then install the pendulum then the movement…and face.

      • Ah – well, that works but it is a surprisingly bad piece of design on an otherwise nicely engineered clock. Point taken that they would not often be moved from their original place of installation, but it still seems like an inelegant solution.

        I may (since the clock itself has already lost its original case and card mechanism) make a modified pendulum arm. I’m thinking that a brass section (replacing the wooden arm in the vicinity of the slot) with a slot in it, and an opening to one side, would allow the pendulum to be ‘hooked’ and ‘unhooked’ much more easily. This will slightly shift the centre of mass of the arm, but I think (based on some advanced back-of-envelope work) that it can be compensated by setting the bob a little lower. Sadly I seem to be a few decades too late to sell this idea to Mssrs. Gledhill and Brook!

        Thanks as always for your prompt reply!
        Paul

      • Well, the new case is mostly done, apart from the glass door and apart from the staining and varnishing. Since the clock itself had already been cannibalized (no card mechanism), I decided not to dress it up in an authentic-looking case.

        The pendulum bob had various dents and dings which have (mostly) been removed, and the pendulum rod had a crack which has been repaired. I’m also awaiting a new dial from Roger Masheder at Alpha Engraving, and will then polish up the brass bezel. I also need to clean and reblue the hands, and generally tidy up.

        Meanwhile, the clock is ticking steadily and soothingly in the background as I write this.

        Thanks to duetime and everyone here for their advice and comments!

  88. Nothing wrong with the design! Just pin the suspension spring ( I use Timesavers # 19564 jewelers regulator or #10421 ST #2) to the suspension spring bracket on the mounting frame. Then, when the frame with movement installed is mounted in case just hang the pendulum on the suspension spring, insert the pin on the crutch rod through the pendulum rod, wind the spring and set in beat. I have probably done more than 100 GBTR’s and never had a problem hanging the pendulum rod
    Bernie Pollack.

  89. I posted in 2010 about a clock I’d bought at an auction. I cleaned it and its been running with out problem in our kitchen ever since. Now here’s the problem. Just before Christmas it kept stopping, now I know nothing about clocks so just put the time right and swung the pendulum, it would go or a few minutes or a few hours then stop. After about a week of this stop start business it went back to running 24/7 with out trouble. Its just started doing it again. Does anyone think there could be a long term problem would temperature be a problem? (I remeber these being out in all weather while I was working in Portsmouth Dockyard so I imagine that this is unlikely. Is there anything I should/could be doing. Its now been running for 24 hours and keeping very good time. Steve

  90. Very nice pictures. I have 2 similar clocks
    , dated about 1943.

  91. Any idea where I can get a new printer ribbon from? Many thanks. Dave

    • Hi Dave,

      Thank you for writing.

      We have purchased ribbons for our Gledhill Brook time recorders from ebay UK. However, if that’s not a feasible option for you, I would think an office supply store would be able to provide you with the carbon ribbon, provided you take a spool into them.

      • Hi…actually I have ordered one from a company called INKY….0115877 0342..about £10..its not a direct replacement but it will wind onto my spools.

        I have two Brooks. one with the adjustable in out leaver which moves the card holder accros, and one which does not have that extra lever on the front, but still has the brass IN – OUT plate where the card goes in, but the card guide is locked in position? Is this normal??
        thanks

        Dave

      • Allan Stephenson

        Over the last three months i have re-inked two ink ribbons for the gledhill brooks recorders, just go to any office or craft suppliers and purchase a ink pad. Press the ribbon on to the pad and rewind ribbon, a little messy on fingers but ihave done two and still plenty of ink left. Not bad for £4.30 and that is a dearer ink pad.

      • Thanks Alan, too late now as I have just bought a ribbon from Inky!

  92. ps I don’t suppose you can tell me where I can get some time cards from, or do you have picture of one that I can concoct a copy off?
    thnaks

  93. Hi Dave Andrews,
    If you scroll back to July last year, you may see that I had thought I had found a source of suitable cards and was hoping to offer them at around £1.50 for ten. Nobody responded! If they had, I would have tried to obtain 1,000 (min order) and despatch as requested.
    James.

    • James. I have not even got my clock going,but would be interested in buying ten cards for when it is in working order. Incidently I have a spare card holding cabinet for a Gledhill-Brook machine which seem to be quite rare as they were all burned up for firewood.
      Made of oak,,stain polished, if anyone is interested in making an offer,
      Very heavy to post, weigh 22lbs or 10 kilos

  94. A word of warning…I vaguely knew it was a bad thing to over oil a clock and have just read it again. The gears must not be flooded in oil as this attracts dust and rapidly grinds the teeth away. only the pivot points should be oiled. My latest Brooks is covered in oil so I must get it cleaned and re oiled properly by an expert!!

  95. regarding my broken snail cam gear wheel. Why would it have broken? did someone try to wind it back? And the cam itslelf is made of two parts in fact its two identical snails except the inner one has a sort of curved groove cut in it about 1/2 inch long, and the outer cam is a bit shorter and curves down before the other one?
    Why this?
    I can see the cam is slotted so that you can precisely adjust the pair of cams to midnight, but what is the purpose of the second cam?

  96. Also, I now have two such clocks. The first one has a full swing of the center of the adjusting knob about 3/4 of an inch either side of the White plaque, The second recently acquired, one only just goes to each end of the plate. I cannot imagine this is because the spring on one is tired? Is it because some well meaning person has flooded the later clock with what looks like cycle oil, which i will have to remove to prevent damage.

  97. and you have to use proper clock oil as well.
    And never clean clock brass with ammonia containing cleaners as this can cuase some kind of corrosion crackking

  98. Regarding suspension springs, I have some post office electric pendulum clocks, and have found that a feeler gauge makes a good suspension spring.

  99. Sorry I keep asking lots of questions… Where did you get your dial restored? and, My second one is a very dark color….is it possible to make it a nice light colour like your picture??

  100. I’ve also figured out why the snail cam has in fact two cams with an odd groove at the top. The roller rides on the inner can to raise the heavy day change arm and weight, and as it gets to the top, the groove pushes the roller aside to let the steel cam follower ride on the inner cam thus giving a precise drop off at midnight. But I expect you knew that!

  101. I’ve just received a very nice reproduction dial from Roger at Alpha Engraving – it’s perfect, and was a bargain.
    In looking at the dial, I suddenly noticed how strange the wording is! It says “The Gledhill Brook Time Recorders Ltd.” I can see it would make sense without the “The”, or if it read “The Gledhill Brook Time Recorder”, but “The Gledhill Brook Time Recorders Ltd.” is just bizarre! (I’ve checked, and this wording appears on most of their dials).

  102. I am having a clearout and have a complete Gledhill JMC a complete masterclock, two top movements for the Mod A, B, C spare clipper unit, pendulum and various parts…………… any interest with prices willing to pay contact Andy on apf.nunn@btinternet.com, also genuine full sales catologue for all Gledhill and it’s original

  103. Finally, the clock is finished. As mentioned in earlier posts, I received it as a clock movement, iron frame, dial and pendulum (no case, and no timestamp mechanism). I restored the movement, built an oak case with a glazed front and a domed glass from Cousins, and fitted a new dial from Roger at Alpha Engraving (the old one was past use or restoration), and it’s now ticking sedately away on my mantelpiece.
    Thanks to all here for the advice on many occasions!

    I do have one last question, though. The pin on the crutch, which engages with the slot in the pendulum, is not a tight fit in the slot – there’s maybe 1mm of play from side to side. This caused the pin to ‘tap’ with each beat (more of a rattle, really), and I wasn’t happy with this. This play also means that some energy is lost on each swing, which can’t help. In the end, I soldered a phosphor-bronze wire to the pin, so that it springs sideways against the edges of the slot in the pendulum, but can still be removed when needs be. This solved the problem. But is this a general problem? I note that the pin itself is threaded, so I wonder if there is mean to be a nut or some other fixture that holds it in a fixed position in the pendulum slot?

  104. Hi I have just found this site and am so pleased there are so many Gledhill -brook enthusiasts’. I am just about to start work on mine after dragging it all the way to perth in oz, I bought mine for £20 in 1983 from a mill owner in Chorley Lancashire who wanted me to dump it on the top floor of the building and replace it with an electric time recorder (shame) I knew there was a great hole in the roof with lots of rain and pigeons so offered him the money, he nearly took my hand off.
    The clock was left in my loft in Blackburn all these years until now were we have just emigrated to Australia bringing it with us.
    The clock has all the bits apart from the key to the glass door, the number is 55762 and is in pretty good condition considering it just being left for the last 30 or so years.
    looking forward to the work ahead now I know I’m not on my own and there area lot more people who love these old clocks.

  105. hi does anyone know were I can get a Gledhill door lock from please.

  106. I have a Gledhill-Brook steel case model with the number 88600 stamped on it. Have never seen this type before, and thought that it was possible a wartime built job, but checking the chart that shows the year of origin,it seems as if it was made between 1962 and 1963.
    As it is a pulse movement machine,and not all that pretty to look at, is it worthwhile converting to home electric working or sell on.?
    Although it must be one of the last made in this country before being sold off to America.

    • These steel case ones were built for building sites or heavy work areas but were usually not part of a master system ie pulse

  107. Thank you Andy for the info. It came from a Government building in Harrow,but may have been in one of their outside work areas, it has no fittings on the back, and being wit5hout a key,have been unable to open it up, but thanks for your help.

  108. Hi,
    I’m trying to get into the bottom door of a Gledhill time clock, does anyone know what type of key it takes?

    Thanks!

    • If you mean the little lock above the In/Out slider, this only locks the slider itself, not the bottom door (at least on all the GB’s I have had my hands on.). Assuming that you can open the main (glazed) door, open it then lift out the horizontal wooden bar behind the card slot. Look on either side of the case and you should see a piece of wood about 2-3 inches long held with a single screw. It is these bits of wood which keep the bottom door closed.. Push them back at the bottom edge (they rotate around the fixing screw) and you should then be able to hinge the bottom door towards you.
      This is all much easier to do than to explain in writing!

  109. I have just listed my lovely clock on eBay it’s serial number 54722 and stamped next to it is B. Porter ? Is this who built it in the factory..

  110. I have just acquired a Gledhill-Brook. It does not have the time recorder box bit on the bottom. Does this mean the case in which it sits s not original ?

    Also: where do I find the serial number ? There is nothing on the case or the face of the clock itself.

    All help/advice appreciated !

    TIM TATE

    • Thank you for writing.

      A lot if these time recorders were modified in this way. Many of them retain their original cases, but the top have has been repaired so that it has a closed bottom. The serial number will be on the case. If you do not see one, then perhaps your GB movement has, in fact, been married with another case. Have you a photo you could send?

      • GB stamped the serial number in the top edge of the right or left siderail, on the left top edge of the open door , on the inside bottom of the case and on the front plate of the movement. These should all match.

  111. Can I jump in on this trail, my case has the name L.FOLEY stamped on the underside of the bottom of the case. Who is he?

  112. hi can anyone help I have 2 gledhills both without the door locks can anyone help please . cheers kevin

  113. Hello all,

    We have had the following request from a visitor. Anyone have a movement open that they can easily measure this?

    Comment back.

    COULD YOU PLEASE HELP ME I AM TRYING TO FIND OUT THE MEASUREMENTS OF THE PENDULUM SUSPENSION SPRING ON A GLEDHILL BROOK TIME RECORDER. IT IS AS FAR AS I CAN TELL THE ONLY PART I AM MISSING, BUT WITHOUT THE DIMENSIONS, I AM JUST GOING ROUND IN CIRCLES. ALSO IF YOU KNOW WERE I CAN BUY ONE I WOULD BE GRATEFUL. THE ONLY NUMBER I CAN FIND ON MY CASE IS 59988 WOULD I BE RIGHT IN THINKING THAT IT WOULD DATE TO AROUND 1940 ?

    • I used a .005 thou feeler blade 42m/m longx 10m/m wide,inserted into the
      brass end of the pendulum and the brass end that hooks over the top pivot
      clamp together and drill through holes in both brass parts, put in rivits to hold together,you may need a couple of 2.3 m/m drills as feeler steel is
      fairly hard.

    • I’ve just tidied up a sketch that I made of a GB suspension spring more than 6 years ago. I agree with all the dimensions Ted has given above with just one more to add: this distance between the two suspension pins was 30mm. I’d gladly post the pdf drawing, but I don’t think I can do it here

  114. Anthony Brookes

    THANK YOU FOR THE INFO. IF YOU COULD EMAIL THE DRAWING TO ME THAT WOULD BE GREAT.
    MY EMAIL CAN BE OBTAINED FROM DUE TIME WHO HAS BEEN VERY HELPFUL
    I AM NEW TO THIS SITE SO IM NOT SURE HOW IT WORKS..
    THANKS AGAIN
    ANTHONY

  115. Ralph Harrison

    Can any one tell me the best way to get the day , month and date to match up correctly to print out after my clock has been stopped for some time?

  116. I have a spare Gledhill Brook cabinet,in quite good condition, but it has no working parts,no door ,,lock or key. it may be of use to someone who’s present cabinet may not be upto standard for the quaility of its works.
    No charge, but would prefer it to be collected from East Herts.
    Height 45″ Width 15.1/4 deep 5.3/4 top half and 11.1/2 bottom part.
    I will send on photos if required, would just like it to be used instead of being scrapped

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